Prices. Published.

This covers the cost for a licensed technician to travel to your home, assess the situation, and provide a professional diagnosis. The fee applies toward any approved work performed during the visit.

A damaged, corroded, or missing cleanout plug is removed and replaced with a new threaded cap to seal the cleanout access point. This restores a watertight seal and prevents sewer gas from escaping into the surrounding area.

The small screen assembly at the tip of your faucet is unscrewed and replaced with a new aerator. This restores proper water flow, reduces splashing, and can improve water efficiency by mixing air into the stream.

A vacuum breaker device is threaded onto your outdoor hose bibb to prevent contaminated water from being siphoned back into your drinking water supply. This simple add-on meets code requirements for backflow protection on exterior faucets.

An unused hole in your sink deck — typically left from a removed sprayer or soap dispenser — is fitted with a decorative cover plate. The cover is secured and sealed to prevent water from dripping through the opening.

The existing toilet seat is unbolted from the bowl and a new seat is installed using fresh mounting hardware. The new seat is aligned, tightened, and tested for a secure, wobble-free fit.

A single angle stop shutoff valve — typically located under a sink or toilet — is replaced by shutting off the main water supply, removing the old valve, and installing a new one. The new valve is tested for smooth operation and a drip-free seal.

Up to three faucet aerators throughout the home are unscrewed and replaced with new units. Fresh aerators restore consistent water flow, reduce splashing, and improve efficiency across multiple fixtures.

An outdoor hose bibb that threads onto the existing pipe stub is unscrewed and replaced with a new valve. Thread sealant is applied to ensure a watertight connection, and the new bibb is tested for proper flow and shutoff.

The standing pilot light on your gas furnace is safely relit following the manufacturer's procedure. The technician verifies gas supply, purges air from the line, and confirms a steady, properly colored flame before restoring normal operation.

Your existing shower head or hand shower is removed and a new unit is installed on the shower arm. Thread sealant is applied to ensure a leak-free connection, and water flow and spray pattern are verified.

A single worn or malfunctioning toilet component — such as a flapper, fill valve, flush valve, or handle — is removed and replaced with a new part. The toilet is tested after installation to confirm proper flush and fill operation.

A closet auger (toilet snake) is inserted through the bowl and fed into the trapway to break up or retrieve the obstruction causing the clog. The auger's flexible cable reaches blockages that a plunger cannot clear.

The flexible supply line connecting your toilet's fill valve to the wall shutoff is disconnected and replaced with a new braided stainless steel or polymer line. Connections are hand-tightened and checked for leaks.

A faulty air admittance valve (also called a Studor vent) is removed from the drain line and replaced with a new unit. This one-way valve allows air into the drain system to prevent slow drainage and gurgling without requiring a traditional roof vent.

A minor drain stoppage is cleared using methods such as plunging, manual removal of visible debris, or disassembly of the accessible trap. No mechanical cable or jetter equipment is needed for this type of surface-level blockage.

The removable P-trap beneath the fixture is unscrewed or disconnected, cleaned of all accumulated debris and buildup, and reinstalled. This direct-access approach quickly resolves slow drains caused by hair, soap, or grease trapped in the bend.

The flexible gas supply connector running to an appliance is disconnected, inspected for damage, and replaced with a new code-approved stainless steel flex line. All connections are sealed with approved compounds and leak-tested with gas detection solution.

The inline water filter that supplies your refrigerator's ice maker is removed and a new filter cartridge is installed. The system is flushed briefly to purge air and carbon fines before returning to normal ice production.

The water supply line feeding your refrigerator's ice maker is disconnected at both ends and replaced with a new braided stainless steel or approved polymer line. Connections at the shutoff valve and appliance are secured and leak-tested.

The pop-up drain assembly in your sink is disassembled, cleaned of accumulated hair and debris, and reassembled. The lift rod and pivot rod linkage are adjusted so the stopper seats and releases properly.

The T&P relief valve on your water heater is unscrewed and replaced with a new valve rated for the same pressure and temperature. This safety device is designed to release water if pressure or temperature inside the tank exceeds safe limits.

The P-trap assembly beneath your bathroom sink is disconnected, removed, and replaced with new tubular drain fittings. All slip-joint connections are tightened and tested for leaks to restore proper drainage and maintain the water seal that blocks sewer gas.

The P-trap assembly beneath your kitchen sink is disconnected and replaced with new drain fittings sized for the heavier use of a kitchen fixture. Connections are sealed and leak-tested to ensure reliable drainage.

A minor leak or loose connection beneath the sink is diagnosed and repaired, which may involve tightening slip joints, replacing washers or gaskets, or resealing a fitting. The repair is tested to confirm the leak is fully resolved.

A jammed garbage disposal is freed by manually rotating the grinding plate using an Allen wrench inserted into the bottom of the unit or by working the impellers with a disposal wrench from above. The unit is tested to confirm it runs smoothly.

An unused or disconnected gas line is securely capped with a threaded cap or plug and sealed with approved pipe compound or tape. The capped line is leak-tested to ensure no gas escapes from the terminated connection.

An unused water supply line is cut, fitted with a permanent cap or plug, and soldered or secured depending on the pipe material. The cap is pressure-tested to verify a watertight seal.

A set of descaling valves and hose connections are permanently installed on the hot and cold isolation valves of your tankless water heater. These service ports allow periodic vinegar flushing to remove mineral scale buildup without disconnecting any plumbing.

A clogged drain line is cleared using the appropriate method for the blockage — cable machine, jetter, or manual clearing — to restore full flow. The line is tested afterward to confirm the stoppage is resolved.

The thermal expansion tank on your water heater system is disconnected, removed, and replaced with a new pre-charged tank. The new tank is set to match your home's water pressure and threaded onto the cold water supply line.

The gas burner assembly is carefully removed from the water heater or appliance, cleaned of soot, corrosion, and debris, and inspected for damage. Burner ports are cleared to ensure even flame distribution before the assembly is reinstalled and tested.

The existing side sprayer head and hose are disconnected from beneath the sink and replaced with a new sprayer assembly. The connection to the faucet diverter is secured and tested for proper spray function and leak-free operation.

A new laundry sink is mounted on a stand or wall bracket and connected to existing rough-in supply and drain lines. Hot and cold water connections are made, the drain is connected to the P-trap, and everything is tested for leaks.

The entire pop-up drain assembly in your sink — including the stopper, tailpiece, pivot rod, and lift rod — is removed and replaced with a new unit. The new assembly is adjusted for a proper seal and smooth operation.

The internal pressure cartridge inside a Sloan Flushmate pressure-assist toilet tank is removed and replaced with a new cartridge. This restores the pressurized flushing action that these commercial-style toilets rely on for powerful, efficient flushes.

The sump pump is lifted out of the basin, cleaned of accumulated sediment and debris, and inspected for wear on the impeller, seals, and float switch. The basin is also cleaned before the pump is reinstalled and tested.

The float switch that activates your sump pump is disconnected and replaced with a new switch. The replacement is wired in, positioned at the correct activation level in the basin, and tested to confirm the pump cycles on and off properly.

A failing sump pump used for groundwater or rainwater drainage is removed from the basin and replaced with a new pump. The discharge line is reconnected, the float switch is positioned, and the system is tested to verify proper activation and pumping.

Internal tank components such as the flapper, fill valve, and flush valve seal are replaced without removing the tank from the bowl. This restores reliable flushing and filling while avoiding the labor of a full tank removal.

The existing tub spout is unscrewed or unset from the wall stub-out and a new spout is installed. Thread sealant or a set screw secures the new spout, and the diverter (if equipped) is tested to confirm proper flow switching.

The temperature setting on your water heater is adjusted to your preferred level using the thermostat dial or control panel. The technician verifies the output temperature at a fixture to confirm safe, comfortable hot water delivery.

A ball valve on a gas supply line is replaced or newly installed by shutting off gas upstream, removing the old valve, and threading in a new code-approved ball valve. All joints are sealed and the connection is leak-tested before restoring gas flow.

A ball valve on a water supply line is replaced or newly installed by isolating the line, cutting out the old valve if present, and soldering or threading in a new ball valve. The line is pressurized and checked for leaks.

Up to three angle stop shutoff valves along with their connected supply lines are replaced in a single visit. Each old valve is removed, a new valve is installed, fresh supply lines are connected, and all joints are leak-tested.

The sacrificial anode rod inside your water heater tank is unscrewed and pulled out, then replaced with a new magnesium or aluminum rod. This protective rod corrodes in place of your tank's lining, significantly extending the life of the water heater.

The internal components of your existing backflow prevention device — including check valves, springs, and seals — are disassembled, inspected, and replaced as needed. The rebuilt assembly is reinstalled and tested to confirm it meets code-required backflow protection standards.

The basket strainer assembly in your kitchen sink drain is removed by loosening the locknut from below, and a new strainer is set in fresh plumber's putty, tightened, and connected to the drain tailpiece. The seal is tested to confirm no leaks.

A new centerset bathroom faucet with a 4-inch mounting spread is installed by connecting it to the existing hot and cold supply lines and securing it to the sink deck. Drain linkage is connected and the faucet is tested for proper flow and leak-free operation.

Your existing bathroom faucet is disassembled, and worn internal parts such as cartridges, O-rings, seats, and springs are replaced. The faucet is reassembled and tested to eliminate drips and restore smooth handle operation.

Up to three flexible supply lines in the bathroom — typically for the sink hot, sink cold, and toilet — are disconnected and replaced with new braided stainless steel lines. Each connection is hand-tightened and leak-checked.

The entire burner assembly in a gas water heater or appliance is removed and replaced with a new factory-spec unit. Gas connections are secured, the pilot and main burner are tested for proper ignition and flame pattern.

A mechanical drain cable is fed through the kitchen drain line to cut through grease, food buildup, and other obstructions. The line is cleared to full flow and tested by running water to confirm the blockage is resolved.

A drain cable is fed into the laundry standpipe or cleanout to break through lint, soap residue, and other buildup clogging the line. Flow is verified by running a full drain cycle after the cable work is complete.

A drain cable is fed through the bathroom sink drain to break up hair, soap scum, and toothpaste buildup causing the blockage. The line is cleared and tested by running water to confirm full flow is restored.

A mechanical cable is fed through an accessible cleanout to clear the main sewer line, followed by a camera inspection to identify the condition of the pipe. The camera footage reveals any root intrusion, cracks, or bellies that may need further attention.

A drain cable is fed through the tub or shower drain to break up hair and soap buildup causing slow drainage or a full blockage. The line is cleared and water is run to confirm normal flow is restored.

The water supply line feeding your dishwasher is disconnected at the shutoff valve and dishwasher inlet, then replaced with a new braided stainless steel or approved line. Both connections are tightened and leak-tested with the dishwasher running.

Up to two thermostats on your electric water heater are removed and replaced after the power is safely disconnected. The new thermostats are calibrated to the correct temperature setting and the heating elements are tested for proper cycling.

The existing outdoor hose bibb is replaced with a frost-proof model that has an extended stem shutting off water inside the heated wall cavity. This design prevents freezing and pipe bursts during cold weather.

Your kitchen faucet is disassembled and worn internal components like cartridges, O-rings, and valve seats are replaced with new parts. The faucet is reassembled and tested to stop drips and restore full handle control.

The pressure regulating valve on your main water supply is removed and replaced with a new unit sized for your home. The new PRV is adjusted to maintain safe water pressure throughout the house, typically between 50 and 70 PSI.

The pressure vacuum breaker on your irrigation or outdoor water line is removed and replaced with a new code-compliant unit. The PVB prevents contaminated water from siphoning back into your drinking water supply during pressure drops.

The filter cartridges in your reverse osmosis system or inline water filter are removed and replaced with new cartridges. Fresh filters restore water quality, flow rate, and the system's ability to remove contaminants effectively.

The float switch that controls your sewage ejector pump is disconnected and replaced with a new switch. The new float is positioned at the correct level in the basin and tested to verify the pump activates and shuts off at the proper points.

A waterproof camera is fed through your sewer line to visually inspect the interior condition of the pipe. The live video reveals blockages, root intrusion, cracks, offsets, and bellies, giving you a clear picture of any needed repairs.

The check valve on your sump pump discharge line — which prevents pumped water from flowing back into the basin — is cut out and replaced with a new valve. The discharge line is reassembled and the pump is tested to verify one-way flow.

Your reduced pressure zone (RPZ) backflow preventer is tested using calibrated gauges to verify that both check valves and the relief valve are functioning within code-required parameters. A certified test report is provided upon completion.

The thermocouple that monitors the pilot flame in your gas furnace is removed and replaced. This safety sensor signals the gas valve to stay open when a pilot flame is present; a failed thermocouple causes the gas valve to shut off.

The thermostatic mixing cartridge inside your shower valve is pulled out and replaced with a new cartridge that accurately blends hot and cold water to maintain your set temperature. The valve is reassembled and tested for consistent, safe output.

The toilet is unbolted from the flange, lifted off, and the old wax ring is cleaned away. A new wax ring is placed, the toilet is reset on the flange, bolted down evenly, and tested for a leak-free seal and proper flush.

The existing tub or shower valve is disassembled and worn internal parts — cartridge, seats, springs, and O-rings — are replaced with new components. The valve is reassembled and tested for smooth operation and consistent temperature control.

The rubber or braided supply hoses connecting your washing machine to the wall valves are disconnected and replaced with new burst-resistant braided stainless steel hoses. Both hot and cold connections are tightened and leak-checked.

A hose is connected to the tank drain valve and the water heater is flushed to remove sediment that has settled at the bottom of the tank. Flushing improves heating efficiency, reduces noise, and extends the life of the unit.

A water sample is collected from your home's supply and tested for common contaminants such as hardness, chlorine, pH, iron, and total dissolved solids. Results help determine whether a filtration or softening system is recommended.

The existing hot water recirculation pump is disconnected from the plumbing and electrical connections and replaced with a new pump. The replacement is mounted, plumbed in, wired, and tested to confirm hot water circulates quickly to your fixtures.

The continuous waste assembly connecting both bowls of a double-basin sink to a single trap is removed and replaced with new tubular drain fittings. All slip-joint connections are tightened and tested for leak-free drainage from both basins.

The dip tube inside your water heater — which directs cold incoming water to the bottom of the tank — is pulled out and replaced. A deteriorated dip tube causes lukewarm water by allowing cold water to mix near the top of the tank.

A new drain hose is connected between your dishwasher and the kitchen sink drain or disposal inlet, with a high loop or air gap installed to prevent backflow. The supply connection is verified and the dishwasher is run through a cycle to test for leaks.

A new Evergrind 101 economy garbage disposal is mounted beneath the kitchen sink using the standard mounting assembly. The unit is wired, connected to the drain, and tested to confirm it grinds and drains properly.

The drain valve at the bottom of your water heater is removed and replaced with a new brass or plastic valve. This allows for future tank flushing and draining without leaks from a corroded or faulty valve.

Up to two heating elements in your electric water heater are removed and replaced after the power supply is safely disconnected and the tank is partially drained. New elements are installed, the tank is refilled, and heating is tested.

A Floodstop automatic water shutoff system is installed on your water heater's supply line with a moisture sensor placed at floor level. If the sensor detects water from a leak, it automatically closes the supply valve to prevent flooding.

The gas valve and thermostat assembly on your water heater is disconnected from the gas line and control wiring, removed, and replaced with a new factory-specified unit. The pilot is relit and the burner is tested for proper ignition and temperature regulation.

An outdoor hose bibb that connects with soldered copper joints is cut free from the supply pipe and replaced with a new valve. The new bibb is soldered in place, tested for a watertight seal, and verified for smooth operation.

A new water supply line up to 10 feet long is run from an existing water source to your refrigerator, including installation of a dedicated shutoff valve. The line is secured, connected, and tested for leak-free ice maker operation.

Install customer supplied garbage disposal. Excludes any additional tubular piping or electrical connections.

Install customer supplied reverse osmosis system. Excludes drilling a new hole for the faucet.

A new kitchen faucet is mounted to the sink deck, connected to the hot and cold supply lines, and the sprayer hose (if equipped) is routed and attached. All connections are tightened and the faucet is tested for proper flow and no leaks.

Electronic locating equipment or probing rods are used to pinpoint the buried septic tank lid without excavation. Once the location is marked, you have the information needed for pumping, inspection, or future access.

This covers general plumbing service tasks that fall outside a specific category, such as minor adjustments, additional diagnostic work, or small repairs identified during a service visit. Scope and pricing are confirmed before any work begins.

A new toilet is set on a fresh wax ring over the closet flange, bolted down evenly, and shimmed level if needed. The supply line is connected, the tank is filled, and multiple flushes are tested to confirm a proper seal and reliable operation.

The toilet is removed to access a damaged closet flange, and a spanner flange repair ring is installed over the broken section to restore a solid mounting surface. The toilet is reset with a new wax ring and tested for a leak-free seal.

The P-trap beneath your tub or shower is accessed through an existing panel or ceiling opening, disconnected, and replaced with a new trap assembly. The new trap is properly sloped, connected, and tested to confirm drainage and a functioning water seal.

The shutoff valves inside your washer box are replaced by threading on new quarter-turn valves. This restores reliable water control for your washing machine connections and reduces the risk of leaks or burst hoses.

A small leak or damaged fitting on an exposed, accessible water line is repaired by replacing the compromised section of pipe or fitting. The repair is soldered, crimped, or joined depending on pipe material and tested for a leak-free seal.

A new main water shutoff valve is installed on an accessible section of the main supply line. The water is temporarily shut off at the meter, the new valve is connected, and the system is pressurized and tested.

The existing dishwasher is disconnected from the water supply, drain, and electrical connections and removed. A new unit is slid into place, leveled, and connected to all supply, drain, and power lines before being tested through a full cycle.

The pipe stub-outs protruding from the wall are cut back and extended with new pipe, then fitted with new shutoff valves and supply lines. This is commonly needed when stub-outs are corroded, too short, or incompatible with new fixtures.

The toilet tank is unbolted and removed from the bowl to replace all internal components including the flush valve, fill valve, flapper, bolts, and gaskets. The tank is reinstalled, leveled, and the toilet is tested for leak-free operation.

The ABS plastic drain and P-trap assembly beneath your tub or shower is accessed through an existing panel, cut out, and replaced with new ABS fittings and pipe. The new assembly is cemented, connected, and tested for proper drainage.

A backflow prevention device is installed on an accessible section of the water supply line to protect the potable water system from contamination. This minor installation involves a straightforward connection on exposed, accessible piping.

A new widespread bathroom faucet with an 8-inch mounting spread and separate hot and cold handles is installed on the sink deck. Supply lines are connected, the drain pop-up is linked, and the faucet is tested for proper operation.

The toilet is removed to provide direct access to the drain line, which is then cleared with a mechanical cable. After the line is confirmed clear, the toilet is reset on a fresh wax ring, bolted down, and tested.

The toilet is pulled and the old or damaged closet flange is removed from the drain pipe. A new flange is secured to the floor and pipe, then the toilet is reset with a new wax ring, bolted, and tested.

The gas piping system is pressurized with air to test for leaks at all joints, valves, and connections. A pressure gauge monitors the system for any drop, and suspect areas are checked with leak detection solution to pinpoint the exact location.

The water piping system is pressurized above normal operating levels to check for leaks at joints and fittings. A gauge is monitored for a hold period, and any pressure loss indicates a leak that needs to be addressed.

A moderate amount of standing water is pumped from a basement or crawl space using a submersible pump and discharge hose. This minor service addresses smaller accumulations before they lead to mold or structural concerns.

The sewage ejector pump is pulled from the basin, disassembled as needed, and cleared of all obstructions, debris, and buildup. The pump is reassembled, reinstalled in the basin, and tested to confirm proper waste discharge.

Your tankless water heater is thoroughly serviced by removing and cleaning the blower assembly, flushing the heat exchanger with descaling solution, and inspecting all components. This maintenance restores efficiency and helps prevent premature failure.

The toilet is removed and the closet bend (the curved pipe beneath the flange) along with the flange itself are cut out and replaced. New fittings are cemented in place, the toilet is reset with a fresh wax ring, and everything is tested.

A damaged section of drain pipe that is exposed and accessible is cut out and replaced with new pipe and fittings. The repair is cemented or banded, tested for proper flow, and verified leak-free.

A minor gas pipe leak or damaged fitting is located, isolated, and repaired using code-approved materials and methods. The repaired connection is sealed and leak-tested with detection solution to confirm a safe, gas-tight seal.

An instant hot water dispenser is mounted at the sink and connected to a compact under-counter heating tank. A water supply line is tapped, the unit is plugged in, and near-boiling water is tested at the new dedicated faucet.

A reverse osmosis water purification system is installed under the kitchen sink with connections to the cold water supply and a dedicated drain line. A separate RO faucet is mounted on the sink deck, and the system is flushed and tested.

The toilet is removed and the damaged flange set in a concrete slab is chipped out and replaced with a new flange secured into the slab. The toilet is reset on a new wax ring, bolted down, and tested for a leak-free seal.

A new single-handle tub/shower faucet valve is installed behind the wall, connected to the hot and cold supply lines, and fitted with a trim kit and spout. The valve is tested for smooth temperature control and proper diverter function.

A new two- or three-handle tub/shower faucet set is installed with individual valves for hot, cold, and diverter controls. Each valve is connected behind the wall, trim plates are mounted, and the system is tested for balanced flow.

A new drain line up to 20 feet long is run from your water heater's temperature and pressure relief valve to an approved discharge point. The line is properly sloped, supported, and terminated per code requirements.

A leaking joint or damaged section on an exposed, accessible water line is repaired by cutting out the compromised area and joining in new pipe or fittings. The repair is tested under pressure to verify it holds.

All water supply lines, fixtures, and drain traps in a two-bathroom home are drained and treated with antifreeze to prevent freezing and pipe damage during an extended vacancy. The water heater is drained and the system is secured for winter.

A backflow prevention device is installed on your water supply line to keep contaminated water from flowing back into your clean water system. This major installation involves cutting into the main line, mounting the device, and verifying proper operation with a pressure test.

A high-pressure water jetter is fed into your main sewer line through an accessible cleanout to blast away grease, sludge, and debris buildup. The jetter scours the interior walls of the pipe, restoring full flow and helping prevent future blockages.

A damaged or collapsed section of drain pipe is located and accessed by hand-digging outdoors or opening a wall cavity. The broken segment is cut out and replaced with new pipe, then all connections are sealed and tested for proper flow.

A significant leak or damaged section of gas piping is located, isolated, and repaired or replaced with code-compliant materials. The entire repaired section is pressure-tested to confirm a safe, leak-free seal before restoring gas service.

New water supply lines and a drain connection are run to an area where no laundry sink previously existed. This includes installing stub-outs for hot and cold water, a drain line with proper venting, and preparing the space for a future sink installation.

The entire gas piping system is pressurized with air or nitrogen to detect leaks at joints, fittings, and connections throughout the home. A gauge monitors pressure over a set hold time, and any pressure drop indicates a leak that must be located and repaired.

The whole-house water piping system is filled and pressurized beyond normal operating levels to identify leaks at joints, valves, and fittings. A pressure gauge is monitored for a set hold period to confirm the system is watertight before restoring service.

Standing water is removed from a flooded basement or crawl space using a submersible pump and discharge hose routed to an appropriate drainage point. This major service addresses significant water accumulation and includes cleanup of accessible debris.

The sewage ejector pump is pulled from the outdoor septic tank, cleared of debris and obstructions, and inspected for damage or wear. Once cleaned and verified operational, the pump is reinstalled and tested to confirm proper discharge.

A failing or burned-out sewage ejector pump is disconnected and removed from the basin, and a new pump is installed along with a new check valve to prevent backflow. The system is reconnected, sealed, and tested to ensure proper waste discharge.

Non-toxic smoke is introduced into the drain and vent system to reveal hidden leaks, cracks, or improper connections. Smoke escaping from any point along the piping indicates a defect that needs repair, making this a highly effective diagnostic method.

A frozen section of water pipe is carefully thawed using controlled heat application such as a heat gun, heating blanket, or warm water wrap. The technician monitors the pipe throughout the process to restore flow without causing a burst or further damage.

A recessed washer outlet box is installed in the wall behind your washing machine, with copper supply lines soldered to the existing plumbing. Quarter-turn shutoff valves are included for easy, reliable water control and quick emergency shutoff.

The existing drain pan beneath your water heater is removed and replaced with a new one to catch any leaks or condensation. The drain line is reconnected to route any collected water safely to a floor drain or exterior discharge point.

The elevated platform that supports your water heater is removed and replaced with a new code-compliant stand. The water heater is temporarily disconnected, lifted, and repositioned on the new stand before all connections are restored and tested.

A leaking or damaged section of water supply pipe is accessed by hand-digging outdoors or opening a wall. The compromised section is cut out and replaced with new pipe and fittings, then pressure-tested to confirm a leak-free repair.

The main water shutoff valve for the entire home is replaced, which may require cutting into the main supply line and soldering or connecting a new valve. Water service is temporarily interrupted during the work and restored once the new valve is tested.

A truck- or trailer-mounted high-pressure water jetter is used to scour your main sewer line and blast away stubborn blockages, tree roots, and heavy buildup. This industrial-grade equipment delivers significantly more power than a portable unit for severe clogs.

Your existing kitchen sink is removed and a new sink is mounted into the countertop, with all drain connections, supply lines, and faucet hookups completed. The installation includes testing for leaks and ensuring proper drainage.

Top mount installation of customer-supplied cast iron kitchen sink

The buried septic tank lid is located using probing tools or electronic locators, then carefully excavated by hand-digging to expose the access cover. This allows for inspection, pumping, or repair of the septic system below.

The existing tub or shower valve is removed and a new single-handle mixing valve is installed behind the wall with a decorative cover plate. Water supply lines are connected, and the valve is tested to ensure smooth temperature and flow control.

An accessible cleanout fitting is installed in your yard's sewer line at a depth of up to three feet. This involves excavating to the drain pipe, cutting in a wye or tee fitting with a removable cap, and backfilling the area.

Your water heater is disconnected from all supply, gas or electrical, and vent connections, then moved to a new location up to 20 feet away. New water lines, gas or power connections, and venting are run to the new spot and everything is tested.

A new drain line is run from a second-floor tub or shower to the main vertical drain stack. This involves routing ABS or PVC pipe through the floor system with proper slope and connecting it to the existing stack with appropriate fittings.